As I get out of the car I can hear the waves crashing and The bitter air makes me cringe.
Standing still on the hot sand starts to burn my feet so I start running into the freezing water.
My body starts to freeze, so after I’ve put on my wetsuit I grab my surfboard and run out into the freezing water.
I paddle out, after a while I catch a wave, I fly out onto shore. My top spot - Taylors Mistake